A stupa to save them all

This morning, Saturday, I switched hotels so I could be strategically closer to the contact I made with an organization that works to reduce poverty and for my purposes, amoung women farmers through training.  I figured if we’re able to meet during the week, I should do the courtesy of being easy to reach.  Being that the Backyard Hotel I was at was in the heart of the Thamel touristy region I was nervous that by moving I would be out in the ‘burbs away from the comforting amenities of flute and hash sellers, narrow streets thick with fumes and horns, and a plethora of restaurants, shops, hotels, and other tourists to swap stories with at breakfast.  

Arriving at PBK I was pleasantly surprised, however. There was something entirely visceral about the positive energy of the area.  When I was checking in, I found myself blubbering cheerily about how nice it felt there to which Koudna at the front desk replied, well that’s because this is a very spiritual place. That may be an understatement.

At the centre of the Bodhnath area is Asia’s largest stupa or shrine and is a place that Lonely Planet says sees thousands of Buddhist pilgrims gather to ritually circumnavigate clockwise “beneath the watchful eyes of the Buddha”.  It’s true. The place is bustling but in a more tame, peaceful way than Thamel.  I watched as pilgrims passed around the entire girth of the stupa rolling these columnar metal tubes (I realize now my knowledge of the structure of the stupa is incredibly lacking), touching the tiny Buddha in between, rolling the next ones, and so on around the whole thing.

Hummous, thalapi (sp?) a squeeze of lime and a really nice
fruit lassi curd drink.

Another great place to view the goings on is from one of the many rooftop restaurants.  Several flights up and you have the best view in all of Kathmandu. I even saw my first snow topped mountain from a rooftop café while enjoying a milk coffee and ginger cookies this morning. There is no end to good food so far (and so long as you check your guidebook and ask about their hygiene practices!).   Later on I stopped for a small lunch of hummous and a fruit lassi—a room temperature fruit smoothie made with ‘only the finest curds”.  I wasn’t sure what to expect but it was totally delicious. 

Anyhow, I really feel like this move was a breath of fresh air. I could walk around the stupa a thousand times and never cease to find it fascinating and even entrancing.  The aging buildings that surround it are so full of character it creates a really warm facade that takes you away from the bustling city found just on the other side.